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travelogues for... New York

Katz’s Deli

There isn’t really a better place I can think of than Katz’s in the Lower East Side for a hot pastrami on rye.

You get these soft, unfussy slices of rye bread barely containing about three times the amount of pastrami any normal person might want. But it’s Katz’s. So the meat is lucious and perfectly seasoned, and you decide after a bite that you probably could eat all of it.

One of the best parts at Katz’s is, while making your sandwich (hopefully, your pastrami), the man behind the counter slaps a couple of pieces on the counter in front of you to taste while you wait.

Top it off with a couple of pickles and a Friday puzzle, and you’re all set.

From the Lower East Side to Madison Square Park

Borscht for Breakfast

Veselka’s is this classic, old Ukrainian diner in the heart of East Village Manhattan that has been in the neighborhood for years.

Not only is it open for 24 hours a day, but they serve legendary pierogi and the most delicious Borscht you will ever find.

Immediately upon arriving, despite the bright, bustling atmosphere, I wished I’d dropped in late the night before when I had a hankering for something warm and comforting after visiting several nearby bars. And when, no doubt, the place would take on a different kind if feeling. The kind of which Tom Waits would be proud.

But, no matter.
We took our seats at the counter and, alongside coffee and assorted meat and potato perogis, enjoyed our Borscht for breakfast.

I had mine served hot. But they also do a cold version in the summer, and a Christmas Borscht with dumplings.

If you ever get the chance, I would highly recommend stopping by Veselka’s for no less than a cup of their deservedly famous traditional beet soup.

I plan to go back the next time I’m in town, perhaps at a later hour, where the tone will be decidedly different yet reliably cozy and comforting.